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Azelaic Acid

An unusually versatile active that handles redness, spots and dark marks at once, and is gentle enough for most sensitive skin.

INCI: Azelaic Acid · Also known as Azelaic

What it does

Azelaic acid is one of the few ingredients that genuinely does several jobs: it calms inflammation, has antibacterial activity against acne, and interferes with excess pigment production, which makes it effective on the marks spots leave behind.

It is also well tolerated by skin that cannot handle retinoids or strong acids, and it is a standard recommendation for rosacea-prone redness. The main complaint is cosmetic — some formulas are thick and can pill under makeup.

A brief tingling on application is common and settles. Results on pigmentation build over two to three months, so this is not a fast active, just a reliable one.

In a routine

Layers well with

  • Niacinamide
  • Ceramides
  • Hyaluronic acid

Azelaic Acid questions

Is azelaic acid an exfoliant?

Despite the name it does not exfoliate the way AHAs and BHAs do. It works on inflammation, bacteria and pigment production instead, which is why it is far gentler than the name suggests.

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